A record 274 climbers reached the summit of Mount Everest from the Nepali side on May 20, 2026, setting a new single-day high for ascents [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]. The previous record was 223 climbers on May 22, 2019, from the same route [1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6]. Rishi Ram Bhandari, secretary-general of the Expedition Operators Association of Nepal, said, "This is the highest number of climbers in a single day so far," adding some climbers had yet to report their summits [1, 2].

Nepal issued 494 climbing permits this season, each costing $15,000 [1, 4, 5, 6]. Most climbers relied on Sherpa guides and bottled oxygen. One Ecuadorian climber reached the summit independently without oxygen [2]. The spring climbing season started late due to threats from an unstable ice cliff (serac) on the common route [2, 3].

The high number of climbers led to congestion near the summit in the so-called death zone, with long queues as many ascended simultaneously [2, 3, 7, 5, 6]. Kami Rita Sherpa, who summited for a record 32nd time this season, expressed concerns about overcrowding. He said, "The expedition this time felt a bit crowded. The government should regulate this a bit … They should let in only climbers of quality – there should be a limit" [2, 8, 7].

At least five climbers died on Everest during the 2026 season, including two Indian climbers who died descending after summiting on May 20 and May 21 [8, 7]. Nivesh Karki of Pioneer Adventures said, "They fell ill while descending at high altitude. We are working out how to retrieve the bodies" [8].

Climbers attempting the Tibetan side were absent in 2026 as Chinese authorities did not issue permits, closing that route [1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 5, 6].

Nepal has introduced tighter controls and increased fees to address risks from overcrowding and inexperienced climbers [1, 4, 5]. Lukas Furtenbach, an expedition organizer, noted the use of oxygen helps manage safety amid crowds. He said, "If teams carry enough oxygen it is not a big problem. We have mountains in the Alps like the Zugspitze where we have 4,000 persons on top per day. So 274 is actually not a big number, considering this mountain is 10 times bigger" [5].

The climbing season continues, with authorities monitoring conditions and permits during the weeks ahead.