British mountaineer Kenton Cool reached the summit of Mount Everest before dawn on May 22, 2026, marking his 20th successful climb of the 8,849-meter peak and setting a new record for the most Everest summits by any non-Sherpa climber [1, 2, 3, 4]. Cool, 52, first summited Everest in 2004 and has climbed nearly every year aside from official closures [1, 2, 3, 4].
Cool is widely regarded as an "absolute legend" who is "quietly rewriting the record books," said Lukas Furtenbach, noting his climbs exceed those of any other non-Sherpa climber while making it look effortless [1, 2]. Cool himself said, "Climbing Mount Everest never gets any easier or any less frightening... Standing on the summit for the twentieth time is incredibly special" [2].
The current world record for Everest summits remains held by Nepali Sherpa Kami Rita, who reached the peak for the 32nd time on May 17, days before Cool's climb [1, 2, 3, 4].
This season has been marked by tragedy, with 4 to 5 fatalities reported on Everest so far. Two Indian climbers who reached the summit died during descent, one near Camp II and another near the Hillary Step, with causes including illness or unclear circumstances. Efforts are underway to recover their bodies [1, 2, 4]. The exact number of deaths and Indian climbers who died varies slightly between reports [1, 2, 4].
Over 270 climbers ascended Everest via Nepal’s southern route on May 20, the busiest single day this season, raising concerns over overcrowding and safety. Calls have emerged to limit climbing permits to reduce risks [2].
Cool began descending back to base camp on the morning of May 22 after his record-breaking summit [1, 2, 3, 4].
